Why Does My Car Make a Knocking or Clicking Noise When Turning?
17 September 2026 · 5 min read
The most likely cause
A rhythmic clicking or knocking noise when you turn, especially at low speed on full lock, is most often a worn outer CV joint on one of the front driveshafts. A single clunk or a creak when you turn the steering, or a knock over bumps while turning, is more likely to be a suspension part such as a top mount, drop link or ball joint.
Both are common, both get worse with time, and both are worth having looked at sooner rather than later. The good news is that the type of noise gives a mechanic a strong clue where to start.
CV joints: the classic clicking noise
Most front-wheel drive cars have a driveshaft to each front wheel, with a CV (constant velocity) joint at each end. The joints let the wheels steer and move up and down while still being driven. They are packed with grease and sealed inside a rubber boot.
When that rubber boot splits, the grease flings out and road dirt and water get in. The joint then wears, and the first sign is usually a click-click-click that speeds up as the car moves, loudest when turning sharply and accelerating, such as pulling out of a junction or driving round a supermarket car park.
A worn inner CV joint, the end nearest the gearbox, tends to cause a clunk when you pull away or come off the accelerator, or a vibration when accelerating, rather than a clicking on lock.
Suspension and steering knocks
If the noise is more of a single clunk, creak or groan as you turn the wheel, look at the suspension. The top mount at the top of each front strut contains a bearing that lets the strut turn with the steering. When it wears, you often hear a clunk or creak while turning slowly, for example when parking.
Anti-roll bar drop links are another common culprit. They usually knock over bumps and uneven roads, and the noise can be more noticeable when the car leans in a corner. Worn ball joints, track rod ends and suspension arm bushes can also knock and may make the steering feel vague or loose.
A humming or growling noise that changes as you turn left or right is a different problem altogether. That usually points to a worn wheel bearing. The noise tends to get louder with speed and may quieten or grow as the weight of the car shifts from one side to the other in a bend.
A simple test you can do
Find a quiet, empty car park. With the window down, turn the steering to full lock and drive slowly in a circle, then do the same in the other direction. If you hear a clicking that speeds up with the car, it is very likely a CV joint, and the side it is on is usually the outside of the turn.
If the noise only happens when you turn the wheel while stationary or crawling along, suspect the top mounts or steering. If it happens over bumps, suspect drop links, bushes or ball joints. Do not try this anywhere near traffic, and do not jack the car up and crawl underneath it without proper stands.
Is it safe to keep driving?
A clicking CV joint will not usually fail overnight, but it will not get better either. If it is left long enough it can break, and a failed driveshaft means the car stops moving. A badly worn ball joint or track rod end is more serious, as it affects your steering and can separate in the worst cases.
It is also an MOT issue. A split CV boot that no longer keeps the dirt out is a major fault, and worn suspension or steering joints can fail too. Catching a split boot early can sometimes mean replacing just the boot rather than the whole joint. Once the joint itself is clicking, the usual repair is a new joint or a complete driveshaft, depending on the car.
Getting it checked in Walsall
At MF Autocentre in Walsall we put the car on a ramp, check the CV boots and joints, and test the suspension and steering parts for play. We tell you exactly what is worn, show you if you would like to see it, and give you a clear quote before any work starts.
If your car is clicking or knocking when you turn, call us on 01922 636820 or book online and we will find the cause.
